Today we went to a local break west of where we live, a break much loved by the locals because when it is good it is really good. Long rides, gentle take-off (at least in anything I am likely to venture out in) and less people than the very local break.
The tourist info advises 'NO SWIMMING, LARGE WAVES & RIPS' which confuses me as it seems quite benign, at least in comparison to many other surfing spots along this coast. I have no doubt that, like any break, it could become quite savage if it had the opportunity.
Each surfing spot has its own personality and I am always wary of a break I don't know. I think it is stupid not to be. I am still trying to work out the 'mechanics' of this one, that is, how it works. It is only the second time we have surfed it, last time it was bigger but the channels were more defined and you could mainly avoid the bigger sets. Getting out the back (behind the break where you catch the waves for non-surfers) is a challenge because there are no clearly established channels. You think there are, start paddling, and then the peak shifts and you find you are duck diving white water and getting pushed in towards shore.
You need a biggish board because the waves are often full and/or soft and crumbly, but trying to negotiate a big board out there is difficult. It is quite a paddle to get out the back but that is what makes the ride such a joy. I learnt to surf in beach breaks closer to shore that often rear up out of nowhere and close-out quite abruptly. This one must be at least a 50m paddle and the water deepens gradually instead of suddenly, which I think accounts for the softness of the waves (in a small swell anyway) The other thing that I think mediates the big Southern Ocean swell is a line of reef, further out than is usual on this coast, maybe about a kilometre. The swell loses some of its energy when it hits it but still has time to regain some power before it gets to the surf break.
The ride is great, long and cruisey, you can get some turns in and then it is a long paddle back out.
NOTE: Again I am posting someone else's images but I aim to remedy that soon. I intend on finally hauling my water-proof camera out and getting some maybe less-glamorous, but honest shots of what it is like in the 'soup'. New territory for me but might be fun.
Each surfing spot has its own personality and I am always wary of a break I don't know. I think it is stupid not to be. I am still trying to work out the 'mechanics' of this one, that is, how it works. It is only the second time we have surfed it, last time it was bigger but the channels were more defined and you could mainly avoid the bigger sets. Getting out the back (behind the break where you catch the waves for non-surfers) is a challenge because there are no clearly established channels. You think there are, start paddling, and then the peak shifts and you find you are duck diving white water and getting pushed in towards shore. You need a biggish board because the waves are often full and/or soft and crumbly, but trying to negotiate a big board out there is difficult. It is quite a paddle to get out the back but that is what makes the ride such a joy. I learnt to surf in beach breaks closer to shore that often rear up out of nowhere and close-out quite abruptly. This one must be at least a 50m paddle and the water deepens gradually instead of suddenly, which I think accounts for the softness of the waves (in a small swell anyway) The other thing that I think mediates the big Southern Ocean swell is a line of reef, further out than is usual on this coast, maybe about a kilometre. The swell loses some of its energy when it hits it but still has time to regain some power before it gets to the surf break.
The ride is great, long and cruisey, you can get some turns in and then it is a long paddle back out.NOTE: Again I am posting someone else's images but I aim to remedy that soon. I intend on finally hauling my water-proof camera out and getting some maybe less-glamorous, but honest shots of what it is like in the 'soup'. New territory for me but might be fun.
