Had a magic surf today at the inlet, Ocean Beach on my big board (8' 4") The main break in the corner was too small and way too crowded. Sometimes things just come together, there was enough residual swell from yesterday's brutal south-east wind and the wind today was from the north-west, light and offshore. The other surfers who eventually invaded 'my' break (I usually try to sneak off to another, sometimes not so good break for peace and quiet) were respectful, were beginners and had short boards anyway. They didn't seem to mind me getting wave after clean, fat-walled wave while they sat on the inside bobbing around - they were enjoying the cold clear water on such a hot day anyway.
For about an hour I had a session all to myself where I would just sit out the back and wait for the sets (about the size of the bottom pic except it was a right, that's the closest one I could find) and take off angling straight across because although there was plenty of face, they were fast, though not nasty at all (if you don't count the sucky left I took and almost made before it got me)
It was heaven. (It made up for the appalling session yesterday in crowded on-shore crap where I got slammed trying to get a wave on my small fish)
As the tide came in and the swell dropped the waves stopped working, which was just as well because my paddled-out arms and shoulders were sore and I know I am going to pay for it tomorrow. But I figured it was worth it, south-easterlies for the next few days, and back to windblown on-shore surf.
For about an hour I had a session all to myself where I would just sit out the back and wait for the sets (about the size of the bottom pic except it was a right, that's the closest one I could find) and take off angling straight across because although there was plenty of face, they were fast, though not nasty at all (if you don't count the sucky left I took and almost made before it got me)
It was heaven. (It made up for the appalling session yesterday in crowded on-shore crap where I got slammed trying to get a wave on my small fish)
As the tide came in and the swell dropped the waves stopped working, which was just as well because my paddled-out arms and shoulders were sore and I know I am going to pay for it tomorrow. But I figured it was worth it, south-easterlies for the next few days, and back to windblown on-shore surf.
