What a difference a day makes. The waves weren't great but the sun was shining.
There was swell and only a few one-and-a-half-overhead-high close-outs in the corner which is where I was surfing (see image below which I took from the lookout before I went in)
For a while there it got bigger than this and I managed to score a few on my 6' 3" fish. I really needed my 8' 4" hybrid because it was on-shore and a bit gutless but when I went in there were a few more people and I wasn't able to duck-dive it on the sets. I even had to chuck my fish a few times but mostly managed to hang onto it.
The surface chop made the fish challenging and I scooted along on top of the white water a bit. But I had a lot of fun and everyone was chilled out.
