4:53 PM
kresek
The surf has been a bit dodgy lately, either too big and closing out the poorly formed banks, or too small. Our beloved point hasn't worked for weeks. The day before yesterday we went to a surf spot 30 km away in the hope of finding a surfable beach break but it was just crazy and even the good surfers weren't doing well in the heavy shifty swell, so I trudged the 1.5 km back up the beach with my 6' 10" fish without so much as a sniff of a wave.
So yesterday, I trudged up the beach again, this time with my 8' 4" gun, hard railed hybrid at the local break to a shifty peak with about half a dozen long-boarders on it. It was doing weird things and I really needed a 'truck' (which is what I call the 9 and 10 footers) so I bailed and went to find a smaller, better shaped peak to myself. There weren't really any to be had, but I went back to my (of late) favourite spot just off the point. I had to sit around and wait a bit, but every so often I got a wave - during a 45 minute 'purple patch' I had one after the other. These pics were taken by Robin, unfortunately when the swell had dropped again (that's why he was out of the water) so not a good example of the nice 2.5 footers I had been getting.
It was smaller but so nice to have it all to myself, and a better shape for my board than the weird cross-swells and back-wash up the beach. I don't really get the communal surfing thing - I am always happier when it's just me and the sea. I don't need to share the experience with other humans, which is probably sad for me because I hear others hooting and hollering to each other sometimes and they seem to be having fun. But I figure hey, (and I must get this put on a T-shirt): surfing isn't a team sport.
Posted in:
The surf has been a bit dodgy lately, either too big and closing out the poorly formed banks, or too small. Our beloved point hasn't worked for weeks. The day before yesterday we went to a surf spot 30 km away in the hope of finding a surfable beach break but it was just crazy and even the good surfers weren't doing well in the heavy shifty swell, so I trudged the 1.5 km back up the beach with my 6' 10" fish without so much as a sniff of a wave.
So yesterday, I trudged up the beach again, this time with my 8' 4" gun, hard railed hybrid at the local break to a shifty peak with about half a dozen long-boarders on it. It was doing weird things and I really needed a 'truck' (which is what I call the 9 and 10 footers) so I bailed and went to find a smaller, better shaped peak to myself. There weren't really any to be had, but I went back to my (of late) favourite spot just off the point. I had to sit around and wait a bit, but every so often I got a wave - during a 45 minute 'purple patch' I had one after the other. These pics were taken by Robin, unfortunately when the swell had dropped again (that's why he was out of the water) so not a good example of the nice 2.5 footers I had been getting.
It was smaller but so nice to have it all to myself, and a better shape for my board than the weird cross-swells and back-wash up the beach. I don't really get the communal surfing thing - I am always happier when it's just me and the sea. I don't need to share the experience with other humans, which is probably sad for me because I hear others hooting and hollering to each other sometimes and they seem to be having fun. But I figure hey, (and I must get this put on a T-shirt): surfing isn't a team sport.
