Yesterday was one of those mellow days at my local break, surfing the sets instead of taking evasive action. The swell was 3m but being from the S/W has to wrap around the point to get into the corner. When I first looked there was nobody in the corner, 10.00 am on a Saturday - are you serious? I was joined by a couple of girls on longboards and a beginner but I knew them all so it was a cruisey session.
I hardly surf the point because it is usually too busy and the longboarders tend to backdoor the wave, sitting right in the channel near the rocks. On my hybrid 8' 4" more high performance board I have to be in the suckier part of the wave, so I don't get many opportunities. It is also tricky - you have to be a lot further inside than you think and it can be difficult to maintain position because the rip alongside the rocks pulls you over to the corner. The strong N/W wind was also pushing me over that way so it was a constant paddle - back in and across.
BUT....there is nothing like paddling like hell into that wall of water, pushing you along until you know you are on that wave and setting up, the position of the board, and then your feet - to slide along as it moves towards the shore. I haven't had such a clean, well-behaved wave in a loooooong time - having to settle for mush to stay out of everyone's way and nurse a recovering ankle/foot injury for the last 7 months.
After half a dozen good waves I thought I would quit while I was ahead. It was enough to make me feel good for the rest of the day.
